Mu Ramen

Long Island City isn’t the easiest place to get to, and it’s not a food destination per se.  Some places serve as a good reason to venture out to a neighborhood less traveled.  Mu Ramen is one of those places.

I remember visiting them years ago when they were just a pop-up inside of a Long Island City bagel shop in some warehouse-y stretch by the water, and there was already this rare sense of comfort and wonder about the food.  Ippudo is reliable and reliably busy, Setagaya is a dive, Takashi is pure indulgence – those ramen spots have their feel and familiarity.  Mu has a sense of refinement, sureness about its craft, and confidence in turning up the details and luxury in its versions of things you think you know.

Look at the beautiful uni.  And ikura.  And under that pile of rich umami goodness some nori rice and spicy tuna and rice.  Fresh AF.Houseofhaos Mu Ramen LIC New York Uni Ikura Rice And fried chicken wings stuffed with foie gras.  A little decadent, delightfully crispy without being gummy or over-breaded or oily.  A little dangerous to bite into because the foie gras is pretty hot.  Delicious though.Houseofhaos Mu Ramen LIC New York Foie Gras Stuffed Chicken Wings This deeply satisfying shoyu duck broth.  So good.  Interesting to have a non-chicken clear broth.  The duck broth is gorgeously rich without being fatty, bright and complex, something you just want to keep sipping on a chilly day.  The runny egg, creamy, just melts in your mouth.Houseofhaos Mu Ramen LIC New York Duck Broth Shoyu house-of-haos-mu-ramen-lic-shoyu-duck-closeupI don’t remember what this tonkotsu-looking bowl was – maybe the Mu Ramen?  At that point, my mind was already a little mushy from deliciousness.


Mu Ramen (menu)
1209 Jackson Ave, Long Island City, NY 11101

Gramercy Tavern, Rounds 2 and 3 – Burgers, Burgers for Everybody

The one thing that I didn’t get the first go-around in the tasting menu at Gramercy Tavern was the infamous burger, which is only available in the Tavern.

Gourmet burgers, the ultimate high-brow/low-brow question mark at so many restaurants in the city, have been having their moment for a while – and as much as I hate being a sucker for food media-driven trendspotting, when it comes to burgers, I’m still a sucker for a good one.  Let’s be honest, I’ll always be a sucker for a good burger.  And sometimes, even if you’re at a fine-ass restaurant, you want a burger.  This is one of those burgers that won’t make you regret ordering one.

off-menu-burger-gramercy-tavern-new-yorkI mean, for the love of God, just look at that.  A lot of housemade details: condiments, brioche-y bun, potato chips, pickled chilis, cured bacon.  These things, plus a lava flow of funky white cheddar.

Most importantly, you can really taste the beef, the grind and the juices.  The patty does not break into chunks.  The bun holds its weight against the grease drip and the heft of the meat.  I guess I’m not really surprised, but nevertheless it’s a damn delicious piece of culinary engineering.

Power lunch Wednesday, pt3: this medium-rare bad boy @gramercytavern #latergram #eeeeeats

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Some stupid-delicious blend of beef cuts (a base of chuck, plus brisket and short rib).  That’s a good mix, flavorful, still a little bloody, beefy/funky, fatty, done medium-rare.

House of Haos Gramercy Tavern Burger 2 New York

Gramercy Tavern (menu)
42 E 20th St, New York, NY
(212) 477-0777

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A Day of Eating in Sunset Park

A few months ago, I took a waistband-stretching jaunt through Sunset Park, a quiet neighborhood in the southern edges of Brooklyn, eating a bunch of Chinese food (and a stop at a phenomenal banh mi shop as well).  Sunset Park sits south of Red Hook and surrounded by other names that do not yet mean much to me, like Bay Ridge and Bensonhurst.  I know each of these neighborhoods have long histories of settlement, trade, migration, immigrants, and the attendant richness of food culture that come with tides of people flowing in and out of the region.  In recent years, these areas are the landing spots of Chinese immigrants, particularly from my home province of Fujian.

Predictably, I went for the food, and made a list of places to hit up, guided in part by Andy Ricker’s Instagram:

Emerging from the 59th Street N-R station and strolling up and down Eighth Ave, I found a quieter, more residential replica of Flushing, restaurants and shops catering to the Chinese community, shoppers picking their way through crates of seafood, grandparents pushing strollers, the throat-y rap of Fuzhou dialect bursting from dining rooms and cash registers.

The first stop was East Harbor Seafood for some dim sum.  For a mid-week morning, the dining room was surprisingly packed with families, including some really big round tables full up with three or four generations, old and young.  I shared a table with two ladies talking in a dialect I didn’t understanding, enjoying my personal array of dim sum classics – steamed tofu skin, spare ribs with black bean sauce, shu mai, and a personal favorite, chicken feet, finished with a bowl of fresh silken tofu drizzled with simple syrup:

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Roberta’s – Pizza and Beards in Bushwick

Disregard for a moment the disturbingly high concentration of beards and low-necked tees, the flannel everything nightmare that Bushwick can sometimes me.  Because the pizza at Roberta’s is sufficiently delicious enough to offset any visceral reaction you might have to the amount of hipsters.  The Bee Sting (spicy soppressata, hot honey, tomatoes, mozzarella) and the White Guy (mozz, ricotta, garlic, olive oil, sea salt) are the two I’ve had most often, and ones that I’d go back to again and again.  Particularly the bee sting – I wouldn’t have ever thought to put honey on a pizza or with soppressata, but here we are, in a new age of Brooklyn consumption.

House of Haos Robertas Pizza Bushwick Brooklyn Bee Sting 2 House of Haos Robertas Pizza Bushwick Brooklyn Bee Sting

White Guy. Ricotta, grana, garlic with speck @robertaspizza @urbanspacenyc. #eeeeeats

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Other pizzas eaten: the Millenium Falco (sausage, basil, onion, tomato, parmigiano) and the Cheesus Christ (mozz, taleggio, black pepper, parm, cream).  The latter is a commitment, an expectedly gooey and umami-pumped experience of food coma, but if you’re especially hungry, it’s a solid choice.

House of Haos Robertas Pizza Bushwick Brooklyn Millenium Falco House of Haos Robertas Pizza Bushwick Brooklyn Cheesus Christ

The crust at Roberta’s is fluffier and more doughy than my ideal pizza crust – which will always and forever be Nancy Silverton’s at Pizzeria Mozza – but with a good char in the oven, it does the trick just fine.  The topping flavors are bold and that’s what I go for.

Sometimes though, the line at Roberta’s can get real long – I’ve heard two hours or more for weekend lunches.  That inconvenience, more than anything else, is the tough part to navigate, especially if you’re trekking from Manhattan and have some modicum of schedule you want to stick to.

If you just want to satisfy a pizza craving, go next door to Roberta’s take-out shop and grab whatever you were going to wait for an hour and a half for, plus a few gloriously good sticky buns for the road.  Speaking of sticky buns, if you do take a seat in the restaurant, they have (or had) a dessert sandwich of a big scoop of ice cream stuck between halves of a warmed-over sticky bun, buttery and salty and sticky-sweet.  Phenomenal and impossible to eat with two hands.

The take-out menu is more limited and doesn’t have the veggie and meat dishes that the restaurant offers, but it does cover the greatest hits, so do what that what you will.  I haven’t tried enough of the veggie dishes to vouch for them as much as they are hyped elsewhere, but as long as you’re not sacrificing pizza consumption I’m on board with whatever you do.

Roberta has branched out to the city as well, as an integral part of the Urbanspace experience, first at Mad Sq Eats, then Broadway Bites, and now at Vanderbilt, the upscale food court that Urbanspace has installed near Grand Central.  Oh, and you can get their frozen pizzas in a bunch of Whole Foods in the city.  Good job on the expansion, fellas.

Roberta’s (Google Maps)

Roberta's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Modern Lunch – Untitled at the Whitney, NYC

Untitled (Google Maps) sits on the ground floor of the new Whitney Museum of Contemporary Art, a glass temple to vegetable-driven cooking that’s increasingly caught on in New York.  All that smack dab in the middle of the human crush of glorified day drinking, family outings, and tourist throngs curious about the High Line that is the Meatpacking District.  Food aside, it’s simply a gorgeous place to take it all in.

House of Haos Untitled Whitney Meatpacking NYC Passe 2 House of Haos Untitled Whitney Meatpacking NYC Bar
Space in New York, in almost any capacity, feels like an extreme luxury, so to see Untitled’s soaring ceilings and uninhibited glass enclosure is like walking into the foyer of an unexpectedly wealthy friend and thinking daaaaaaayum.  Good on ya, Danny Meyer.

Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern’s head impresario, oversees the kitchen.  Union Square Hospitality Group is behind the venture, as well as the upstairs cafe.

The food is meant to share, portions relatively small, the plating bordering on minimalist, the flavors a dance of sharp and broad and muted.  There’s spice but only barely (the chili in the leeks), there’s an earthy chlorophyllic sweetness on full blast (the kale & sugar snap peas in the fried & roast chicken salad), there’s rich crab umami in the crispy croquettes, smeared with aioli.

House of Haos Untitled Whitney Meatpacking NYC Charred Leeks Chili OrangeHouse of Haos Untitled Whitney Meatpacking NYC Fried Chicken Salad Snap Peas Kale Continue reading

The Old and the New – Morgenstern’s, NYC

Morgenstern’s (Finest Ice Cream) feels in some ways like an anachronism.  Like a soda bar or something, a page out of old Archie.  Or something from a Michel Gondry movie, an All-American ice cream shop off a lonely stretch of Bowery (Google Maps) murmuring with junkies and others just barely hanging onto the margins of society.

House of Haos Morgensterns NYC Storefront House of Haos Morgensterns NYC 2

On the other hand, Morgenstern’s makes damn good ice cream, so who cares about the throwback paper caps and the retro menu.  But then again, the menu isn’t all that retro, with nods to Kanye and chef collaborations, is both cloyingly hipster and creative.

House of Haos Morgensterns NYC Toppings House of Haos Morgensterns NYC Toppings 3 House of Haos Morgensterns NYC Ice Cream ConesRaw egg and coffee cluster.  Vietnamese coffee.  Mango passion fruit.  Luxardo cherries, toasted coconut toppings.  Smooth strawberry.

House of Haos Morgensterns Bowery NYC American Egg Smooth Strawberry Toasted Coconut Luxardo Cherries Continue reading

Little Park and Upland – NYC

The best way I can describe Little Park (Google maps) in Tribeca’s Smyth Hotel – is a stylish picnic.  One that you would plan for a date, somebody whose sensibilities include Soulcycle or design magazines and to whom you want to say, “hey, I do eat other things besides Shake Shack and fried chicken.”  Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

You bring her here to impress her with some beetroot risotto and the airy tempura of avocado squash & blossoms.  Sure, there are also duck and scallops on this picnic, because you want to ball out a little.  But those come later.  After you eat your vegetables like the cultural connoisseur you are (“za’atar is an ancient spice blend,” you will say, because you checked Wikipedia while she was in the bathroom).

Different from the way that Upland (Google Maps), in Gramercy, is also a picnic.  Your date might also enjoy Upland, and if she’s game to split the short rib for two or she goes fingers-first for the crispy duck wings, confit’d and crisped, slathered with yuzu kosho, then it’s time to consider getting more serious.

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Red Hook Redux: Brooklyn Crab – NYC

Brooklyn Crab is a seafood shack with a distinctly neighborhood feel, and fewer noticeably commercial tchotchkes on the walls than you’d otherwise expect, given the sometimes-on-weekend profusion of bros & the women who love them.  Depending on your seat, you’ll have a view of Brooklyn, the Red Hook Fairway building, or the waterfront, the Statue of Liberty vaguely in the distance.  But it’s this neighborhood vibe that lingers, just 20 easy minutes (via water taxi) from downtown Manhattan.  Almost Floridian or Orange County-esque.  And what a relief to escape to a place like this.

Where the Cajun shrimp are plump and juicy, bathed in cayenne & lemon & celery salt.

House of Haos Brooklyn Crab Red Hook NYC Cajun Shrimp

Where you order crab legs steamed in butter, with a side of clarified butter for dipping.  Where you alternate between using the tools and your teeth, methodically extracting the salty-sweet fruit from its crunchy husk.

House of Haos Brooklyn Crab Red Hook NYC Crab Legs Butter House of Haos Brooklyn Crab Red Hook NYC Crab Leg

Where you put butter even on the corn, because it’s just right thing to do, goddamn it.

House of Haos Brooklyn Crab Red Hook NYC Corn ButterBrooklyn Crab
24 Reed St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
(Google Maps)

Estela – Soho, NYC

Estela feels like such a neighborhood spot, the entrance as if you’re stepping into your college buddy’s second-story walk-up on a Saturday night, bottle of something in hand, pile of boots and ballet flats strewn around the door, your mind on that one girl you met last time and wondering if she might show up tonight.House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC The interior is dim, vaguely shimmery from candlelight, shrouded by hushed conversations, dates and hip parties, a good energy spilling over from the crowded bar.  You want it to be a hip friend’s apartment, somewhere that if smoking were still a thing, there would be the faraway scent of that and perfume and jazz.

And fancy ginger ales.  With beautifully cubed ice.House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Ginger Ale Surryano country ham.  Because, why not?  Fat and salt in a relatively primal form.House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Country Ham A simple, elevated presentation of crunchy leaves of green (kale?).  But underneath this lardo-brushed canopy, some seared scallops, simple and sweet, sweetness that surprisingly held up its own to the herbacious, textured sweetness of sugar snap peas. House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Scallops 1 House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Scallops 2 Fried arroz negro with sepia and romesco.  So many layers of savory in this dish, as well as texture – the rice, the slippery bits of cuttlefish, and the tangy spread of romesco.House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Black Rice House of Hao's Estela Soho New York NYC Black Rice Uni Sepia  Continue reading

If I Pie Before I Wake – Four & Twenty Blackbirds, Brooklyn, NYC

There’s a butter-laden heaven worth visiting in Gowanus, Brooklyn, called Four & Twenty Blackbirds.  You can smell why when you first walk in, the heaviness of crust, flour and butter and sugar, the citrus and cinnamon and sourness of berries cooking down, tinged with the bitterness of coffee.

I’ve tried the blueberry crumble, strawberry streusel, salty honey, and salted caramel apple pies.  All of them were delicious.House of Haos Four and Twenty Blackbirds Park Slope Brooklyn NYC Strawberry Pie Blueberry Crumble House of Haos Four and Twenty Blackbirds Park Slope Brooklyn NYC Blueberry Crumble

Go to there.

Four & Twenty Blackbirds (website)
439 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215
Google Maps

Four & Twenty Blackbirds on Urbanspoon