Morgenstern’s (Finest Ice Cream) feels in some ways like an anachronism. Like a soda bar or something, a page out of old Archie. Or something from a Michel Gondry movie, an All-American ice cream shop off a lonely stretch of Bowery (Google Maps) murmuring with junkies and others just barely hanging onto the margins of society.
On the other hand, Morgenstern’s makes damn good ice cream, so who cares about the throwback paper caps and the retro menu. But then again, the menu isn’t all that retro, with nods to Kanye and chef collaborations, is both cloyingly hipster and creative.
And there is the New God Flow, milk toast with milk ice cream and a drizzling of luxuriously sweet honey.