The one thing that I didn’t get the first go-around in the tasting menu at Gramercy Tavern was the infamous burger, which is only available in the Tavern.
Gourmet burgers, the ultimate high-brow/low-brow question mark at so many restaurants in the city, have been having their moment for a while – and as much as I hate being a sucker for food media-driven trendspotting, when it comes to burgers, I’m still a sucker for a good one. Let’s be honest, I’ll always be a sucker for a good burger. And sometimes, even if you’re at a fine-ass restaurant, you want a burger. This is one of those burgers that won’t make you regret ordering one.
I mean, for the love of God, just look at that. A lot of housemade details: condiments, brioche-y bun, potato chips, pickled chilis, cured bacon. These things, plus a lava flow of funky white cheddar.
Most importantly, you can really taste the beef, the grind and the juices. The patty does not break into chunks. The bun holds its weight against the grease drip and the heft of the meat. I guess I’m not really surprised, but nevertheless it’s a damn delicious piece of culinary engineering.
Some stupid-delicious blend of beef cuts (a base of chuck, plus brisket and short rib). That’s a good mix, flavorful, still a little bloody, beefy/funky, fatty, done medium-rare.
Gramercy Tavern (menu)
42 E 20th St, New York, NY
(212) 477-0777
House of Hao's 