Dinner at Betony – NYC

We celebrated an anniversary at Betony, a posh midtown restaurant headed by Chef Bryce Shuman and GM Eamon Rockey, alums of Eleven Madison Park.  The dining room exudes luxury, in whatever way that soaring ceilings of relief sculptures and plush, comfortable oval-backed chairs exude luxury.  But there’s also something cool, something about the towering exposed brick walls and the elegant tableware, through a kind of plush, dark, rich, velvety, rarefied air of midtown Manhattan.

And the food.  Indulgent, irreverent, rich, but also creative and sometimes restrained.

Crisps.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC CrispsFoie gras bon-bons, with black pepper.  The oily nuttiness of crushed cashews and the creamy burst of foie are the epitome of savory candy.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Foie Gras Bonbons Cashew Black Pepper Crisps with scallops.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Marinated Scallops And this beautiful beast: pan-seared foie gras (the way I prefer it), stuffed with ham, in a wonderfully salt ham hock consommé, topped with a crisped kale leaf.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Hot Foie Gras Ham Hock Consomme House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Hot Foie Gras 2 Gnocchi.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Gnocchi House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Bread Caraway Seeds House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Lemon Foam Poached lobster, delectably tender, in a medley of greens, and a buttery foamy sauce.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Poached Lobster The infamous short ribs, seared on a Japanese binchotan white charcoal grill after an unimaginably long 48-hour sous-vide that breaks down all the collagen down into a silky bomb of flavor that melts almost like butter against the steak knife.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Grilled Short Rib Scallions Potato Puree House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Grilled Short Rib Onto dessert: maple, amaranth, and caramelized banana.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Banana Butterscotch custard, with butterscotch crisps scattered atop.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Butterscotch A little tray of bon-bons.House of Haos Betony Midtown NYC Macaron CandyThe meal was a splendid reminder of how heartwarming fine dining can sometimes be, a confluence of ideas that don’t come across as overly tongue-in-cheek or pretentious, not concepts, but more dishes that convey in earnest terms how hard the kitchen has worked to make something uniquely delicious.

Betony (website)
41 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019
(Google maps)

Betony on Urbanspoon

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s