Dinner at Commerce Restaurant – West Village, NYC

The bread basket at Commerce is a sign of good things to come.  There are some mini baguettes, a brioche bun, a sesame loaf, maybe some sourdough and who knows – but that’s some fine dining-level bread basket action for a space as fun and old-school-looking as Commerce.  The kitchen is helmed by Harold Moore, who came up through the line at Gotham Bar & Grill, Daniel, and Jean-Georges.  Some real respectable pedigree.  And a nice dude.House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Bread BasketBetween two dinners in the West VIllage, we covered a good chunk of the menu.  Here’s the rundown, starting with the appetizers.  The marinated hamachi, with microgreens, yuzu, tomato and chili:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Marinated HamachiFried oysters with remoulade:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Fried Oysters Remoulade SauceDeviled eggs.  I don’t particularly care for deviled eggs usually, especially the funky smell of the blended yolk, but these were borderline fragrant, with a crushing of extra-crispy bacon.  Plus, the yolk ain’t so bad when it’s doused in mayo, and probably some healthy amount of butter.House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Deviled Eggs Crispy Bacon Duck foie gras rillette terrine with sweet onion and apple relish.  The walnut bread was a sturdy undertone for the luscious, extravagant terrine:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Duck Foie Gras Rillette Terrine Sweet Onion Apple RelishBurrata tartine: House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Burrata TartineShaved Brussels sprouts salad with sweet potato, apples & bacon vinaigrette: House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Brussels Sprout SaladRoasted sweet potato tortellini, hazelnuts, pomegranate, beurre noisette:House of Haos Commerce Restaurant Sweet Potato Tortellini Hazelnuts Beurre NoisetteBeef deckle “toro,” with charred mushrooms and ponzu:House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Beef DeckleAfter deviled eggs, the sweet potato tortellini was my favorite, the nutty sauce with butter as a sleek undertone, a cinnamon sweetness tucked away into each meaty bite of pasta.

Onto the mains.  Classic steak Diane with haricot verts & potato puree:

House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Classic Steak Diane Haricot Vert Potato PureeMushroom cannelloni:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Forest Mushroom Cannelloni Chanterelle Porcini TruffleOra King salmon with spice yogurt, beets, favas and crispy quinoa:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Ora King Salmon Spiced Yogurt Beets Favas Crispy QuinoaPecan-crusted Long Island duck with wild rice, root vegetables, and clementines:House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Pecan-crusted Long Island Duck Wild Rice Root Vegetables Clementines House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Pecan-crusted Long Island Duck Wild Rice Root Vegetables Clementines 2Spaghetti carbonara with black pepper & coddled egg yolk:House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Spaghetti CarbonaraKorean-inspired Berkshire pork chop with rice cakes and Kimchi apple salad:House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Korean-inspired Berkshire Pork Chop House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Korean-inspired Berkshire Pork Chop 2 Pork schnitzel with fingerling potatoes and cucumber salad:House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Pork SchnitzelThe duck, pork chop, and schnitzel were ones I ordered, and I managed to snag bites of the other stuff.  The duck was fantastic, a bit on the lean side, tender and gamey, enhanced with the pan-seared pecan, the clementines a slight nod to that old French recipe.  The pork chop was my second favorite, a perfectly-cooked, generously-cut slab of tender pork with a healthy char.  The crunch of the apple salad and the spicy, vinegary addition of kimchi make for a great, precarious balancing act, one that teeters on the edge of pan-Asian curioso but manages to land very well on both feet.  And the schnitzel was very well-done, albeit not quite as interesting as the other two.

But the dessert, in particular the coconut cake, is what captures my heart at Commerce.  The kitchen decided to send us some birthday cake (simple yellow cake with chocolate frosting and sprinkles), which we wouldn’t have otherwise ordered, but hey, it was delicious.  The real draw for me is the coconut cake, aptly termed “The Best Coconut Cake.”  That is not even an exaggeration.

House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Birthday CakeThis cake is so ridiculously moist and creamy and rich, the frosting like a smooth Italian cream with toasted shavings.  There’s not many other ways to describe it besides phenomenal.House of Haos Commerce Restaurant New York Best Coconut Cake House of Haos Commerce West Village NYC New York Best Coconut Cake

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