One of the coolest things about the quotidian life in Southern Yunnan, or Jinghong in particular, is the leisurely pace of life, inherited from its neighbors to the south. A part of this is late-night streetside barbecue, which doesn’t really get going until ten or eleven at night, couples and groups of friends and families alike gathering around rickety tables spread with plastic, to sit and revel in the sounds of portable karaoke machines, clinking beer bottles, to marinate in the scented smoke rolling off the charcoal grills and the open late summer air. A carnivore’s dream, in skewer form. The pork belly was lightly crisped on the fat side, rich and juicy, and came with a pile of chili salt for dipping. I could eat this for days and be happy.The sweetgrass (香草) wrapped fish, with chilis and herbs, was beautifully charred on the outside, the blackened grass sealing in the moisture.This pineapple sticky rice is another dish that I saw everywhere (not complaining). The chopped-up pineapple saturated the sticky rice with tangy sweetness, almost to the point of cloying (because of how sweet the pineapple was). The acidity helped balance it out, and this was a great complement to the smokiness and spice of the BBQ.Gizzard.Tofu.Wild mushrooms in banana leaf.The meats were, to me, slightly more delicious than the vegetables, but that’s because the chili salt was so delicious, and everything was so fresh (which came out more in the meats). The smokiness translates better. Or more truthfully, I didn’t really order many vegetables, because I like meat more than vegetables.