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Yet Another Pun – Pho-Tastic on Wuding Lu, Shanghai

Myra and I have been frequenting the new Vietnamese place down the street from our apartment.  It must be a prerequisite of all Vietnamese places, namely pho shops, that the name of the restaurant be a lousy pun.  Before they can begin to think about the menu and location and all the other silly little details, any Vietnamese restaurant owner must first find a reasonably punny title for their upcoming pho project.  Sorry, any self-respecting pho shop owner, that is.

Frankly, I just want a good reliable Vietnamese restaurant without having to feel like an idiot when referring it to friends or typing the name out on any device with a screen.

So I resolve to type it out once and then not to refer to the place by name in the rest of the post: Pho-Tastic, on 1097 Wuding Lu across from Laowang and down the street from Enoterra, Le Cafe des Stagiaires, Lab, etc.  Right next to the gas station.

We ventured upstairs once but the staircase is a dauntingly steep and not worth the fuss if there are seats downstairs.  As for the food, I suppose I’ll have a much better point of comparison in about two weeks when Myra and I head to Ho Chi Minh City, but I found the beef pho and the pork chop (the other thing I usually order, with either rice or bun noodles) to be pretty reliably tasty.  The soup isn’t complex or unique, but a squeeze of lime and some peppers help you deal with it.  The noodles are consistent, slightly salty, and the beef balls are potently savory in that fried garlic sort of way.

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So Much Madison – Sunday Brunch

I’d heard a lot about Madison’s infamous brunch over the past year, so it was exciting to get a shot at it.  The only setback was that we couldn’t get a table (for eleven people) until two-thirty in the afternoon.  Which then meant that many items (food & drinks) were sold out, including orange juice (oddly, for a brunch establishment).  Noted, I suppose, to come (much) earlier.

Either way, the country-fried wagyu steak (with chorizo gravy) and the chicken waffle sandwich were still available, so I ordered them:

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LA Retrospective – Son of a Gun

Last month, after Pizzeria Mozza, we went to pig out at Son of a Gun, another perennial LA favorite.

ora king salmon crudo, jerk spice, kiwi, palm sugar vinaigrette, habanero

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crispy brussel sprouts with slow-poached egg and radish (first time trying this dish, which I really liked.  brussel sprouts are great when both savory and crisped, and the gooey egg made for a great medium to bind loose sprout leaves and contrast with their slight crunch)IMG_0164 Continue reading »

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Casa Mono – NYC (Union Square)

A few weeks ago, I met my friend Shuang for lunch at Casa Mono, the much-praised Spanish-themed restaurant near Union Square, whose backers include the estimable Mario (Batali) and Joe (Bastianich), the same duo who along with Nancy Silverton created one of my favorite LA eateries, Pizzeria Mozza.  During the afternoon, even with the windows open and interior well-lit, the space looks cozy, and at times a bit cramped.  The small, open kitchen seemed to be shifting between wrapping up lunch service and starting prep for dinner – in any case, the restaurant was slow, quite, and for those reasons – rather enjoyable.

 

The menu was evocative of my time in San Sebastian a year ago, but the chef’s inspirations and history trace back to the Costa Brava, on the other coastline near Girona and Barcelona.  I’m not well-seasoned or -traveled enough to know the differences, only that some things on the menu looked more familiar than others.  Our appetites (voracious) and the chill of a New York autumn steered our cravings towards heartier things, but in general the menu was a bit more complex and expansive than the simpler flavors of briny anchovies and bacalao and roasted red peppers and jamon that I recalled of Spanish tapas.

One thing that immediately stood out was the seafood’s freshness which, while not entirely comparable to Mama’s Fish House, showed through modest seasonings and grounded preparations, by which I mean to say that there weren’t any foams, sous-vides, or something-three-ways.  The razor clams, smoky from the grill, were like a blunt, brutish version of escargot, less refined in a good way.  The croquetas were bursting with rich, salty cod flavor, albeit tempered by the aioli.  I do like bacalao a lot, but more so in an unbattered and unfried state (don’t hold me to that, though).  The harissa on the calamares was the only spicy note of the meal, and reminded Shuang and me of sriracha, which may or may not speak to my level of sophistication when it comes to sauces.

The heftier portion of the meal was dominated by this delicious bone marrow, each bone topped with pesto and served alongside crisped bread (there’s no better compatriot for the unbridled debauchery that is bone marrow than really greasy bread).  Then there was a pork belly dish with octopus, grapefruit and pork rinds.  These came with another extravagant thing we ordered: duck egg with jamon iberico, black truffle, and roasted potato, essentially a petit perversion (in all the good connotations of perversion) of an English breakfast.

That last shot makes me want to do dirty things.

Casa Mono
52 Irving Place, New York City 10003

Casa Mono on Urbanspoon

New York, New York – Locanda Verde (Tribeca)

In the wake of Hurricane Sandy and its tumultuous impact on the eastern seaboard and to many of my close friends who live and work there, writing about the string of really good restaurants I visited throughout Manhattan was a strong reminder of some things that are beautiful, unrivaled, and enduring about New York, its various neighborhoods, and the creativity and talent of its restaurant industry.

I’d gone home to Kentucky for a few days and after getting back to my TriBeCa hotel, it was a shade past two and I desperately needed a hearty lunch to make me forget about all of the morning’s airport snacks and Starbucks.  My trusty Eater 38 guide pointed me towards Locanda Verde, a nearby Italian joint, headed up by Andrew Carmellini (who cooked previously at Cafe Boulud and started A Voce).

The lunch menu was very slim, just one or two single-column pages, if I remember correctly, and the decor somewhat nondescript in a trattoria way, halfway between speakeasy and steakhouse.  The waiter, although not particularly warm in the mama-hostess sort of joviality that I love, was nevertheless unobtrusive and exceedingly polite, and helped me settle on a simple lunch of Grandmother’s Ravioli (a chef’s-special-recipe sort of simple fare dish, with multi-meat stuffing), a side of brussel sprouts (with pancetta, obviously), and for dessert a scoop of black mission fig sorbetto (oh, and a few slices of butternut squash focaccia to start).

Folks who know me know that I’ve really taken a liking to brussels sprouts over the past year or two – or, if you’re a folk who knows me and didn’t know that, FYI.  Carmellini’s brussels sprouts excellently straddled that imaginary nexus between just charred enough, flavor-marinated, and too mushy.  It wasn’t quite as unique as the intense fish-sauce brussels sprouts at Red Medicine in LA, but the pancetta expectedly brought a lot of oomph to each bite.  More recently, I’ve also learned that it’s worth taking a moment with each ravioli to actually try and enjoy the taste of the filling – the opposite to what school cafeterias had previously trained me to do.  These Grandmother raviolis were definitely worth the extra time.

I wish there had been one or two more people with me – I would’ve loved to split some appetizers (especially the duck meatballs) and perhaps try a second pasta (I had also been debating the pumpkin agnolotti), but as it was, lunch was amazingly delicious and well-done.

Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich St, New York, NY 10013

Locanda Verde on Urbanspoon

Cavatappo Grill – Upper East Side, NYC

To kick off a series of posts on a week-long swath of culinary destruction I embarked upon a few weeks ago in New York, this is one of Myra’s favorite dishes – and now one of mine – from a longtime favorite of hers and her sister’s, Cavatappo Grille, on the Upper East Side.  Luxurious strands of pappardelle coated in a umami-soaked sauce, full of shreds of seared duck that have still hung onto their rich flavor.  All enjoyed in good company, of course.

Cavatappo Grill
1712 First Avenue,  New York, NY. 10128

Cavatappo Grill on Urbanspoon

What's up, ladies?

Tsui Wah (Round Four) – Shanghai

Our friend Aimee recently announced in post-dinner-party conversation: “You know that Tsui Wah is like the Denny’s of Asia, right?”

 

Then, I was like:

 

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Lao Wang Hot Pot – Shanghai

A typhoon was sweeping through Shanghai – or rather, we were faced with a mild drizzle in lieu of what had been hyped up to be the storm of the century.  Nevertheless, it was a good impetus to huddle indoors and slurp up something hot and soupy.  So we found our way to the hotpot place on Wuding Lu, near Jiazhou Lu, across from the row of wine bars that had literally sprouted up overnight.  We had walked by the place so many times, it felt so familiar, the families and couples gathered over the rising steam of the boiling pots, the dark paneling and tabletops, plates and plates of food about to blanched.

First full rolling boil. Boom.

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Smoked duck breast and foie gras roll

Jonesing for Japanese, Part 2 (Birthday Sushi) – Shanghai

As I walked in, a bit early for our birthday-party-of-seven reservation, there was an older white couple very eagerly non-verbally thanking the sushi chefs.

Servers: “Arigato gozaimashita!”

White lady: [THUMBS UP!] [SMILING!] [MORE EMPHATIC THUMBS UP!!!]

An auspicious start to the evening, I’d say.

Seahorse Sushi

Sushi bar at Seahorse Sushi

The stars were aligned in other ways:

1. I’d been on the prowl (lazily, I might add) for a decent, and decently priced, sushi bar in the neighborhood.  At least a viable alternative to Sushi Abuse and its much-to-be-desired sushi rice.  That our friend Richie’s friend had picked this THUMBS-UP of a sushi hideaway seemed preternatural.

2. With our table size and some adventurous eaters, we’d at least get to try a good number of things from the menu.

3. The restaurant was called Seahorse Sushi.  I’m not sure how that figures into this particular horoscope I’m writing, but any underwater species wherein the male carries the eggs through gestation is cool with me.

3. The place was well lit and cozily decorated, and surprisingly large – we moved our reservation up from 5 people, and were promptly shifted upstairs to the third floor.  They also own the floor between the first and the third floors, in case you’re wondering.  The building is narrow, so even though three floors is large, it’s not Times Square obscene or anything.

We started the meal light, since we were waiting on some stragglers:

Octopus with wasabi

I think it was my first time having this dish, which was a great starter – something small but heavily seasoned with both a briny soy flavor and a subtle wasabi kick, perfect to nibble on while contemplating what else to order.

Natto beans

I also hadn’t tried natto beans (Japense fermented soybeans) before, and while I like fermented tofu (the spicy version, at least), natto beans (or at least this dish) didn’t have the same overwhelming flavor.  It’s hard to try and tease out a subtle flavor from something with a slimy mouthfeel.  Just not a combination that works for me – either you have a lightly flavored normal soybean – and I love edamame – or you have a very strongly flavored fermented something, so that the gooeyness doesn’t overwhelm your willingness to taste the stuff.  That’s my opinion, anyway.  You crazy Japanese, you, with your mayonnaise obsession and your natto beans.

Tobiko sushi (flying fish roe)

Once everybody arrived, we finally got started with the body of the meal:

Salmon and white tuna maki roll

Soft-shell crab roll

Tuna roll with salmon and avocado

Prawn sashimi (part of sashimi platter)

Clam sashimi (part of sashimi platter)

Although the sashimi platter’s quantity didn’t quite warrant its price, its individual components were really good, the head-on shrimp, the clam, and the salmon (not picture) in particular.  I checked with the two others who had already eaten the shrimp whether they’d gone for the delicious brain juice, which is something I’d usually do, but this being China, I wanted to make sure.  They both gestured tellingly at their already emptied shrimp heads, and I didn’t want to be the odd (shrimp head) man out, you know?

Next came Seahorse Sushi’s signature maki rolls:

Smoked duck breast and foie gras roll

Smoked duck breast and foie gras roll

Quite tasty, although I’d been very skeptical initially, since I’m not usually one for the more eclectic maki rolls that sometimes seem to be trying too hard.  But the onion topping, duck breast, and the conservatively portioned foie gras were all distinct and distinguishable, and the sweet unagi sauce was placed more on the spoon than the roll itself.

The seared beef maki roll, which came topped with caramelized onions, was also good, but not quite as memorable as the duck and foie gras combination.

Roast beef sushi

We also had the sushi platter, which was good but unmemorable.

Sushi platter

Since it was Richie’s birthday, we had needed a cake, which I found myself in charge of procuring before the dinner.  Unfortunately, the dessert shop I originally went to was closed, and the bakery next door must have had a busy day and had run out of whole cakes, so the result was a somewhat patchwork dessert offering:

The 5/6th chocolate berry cake for the birthday boy

Carrot cake and coconut chocolate tart

Not all bad for a Wednesday night.

Interiors at Seahorse Sushi

Interior at SeaHorse Sushi

Seahorse Sushi
51 Fumin Lu,
near Yan’an Lu

Recommendations: (1) Octopus with wasabi, (2) salmon, shrimp, and clam sashimi, (3) soft-shell crab maki roll, (4) salmon and white tuna maki roll, and (5) smoked duck breast and foie gras maki roll.

Pastries from:

Baker and Spice
Shanghai Center East Tower Rm 118, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu

Crispy Pork

Brunch at Tsui Wah – Shanghai

The Canto restaurant chain Tsui Wah is quite popular in Shanghai, with three locations west of the river.  The restaurant traces its roots back to Mong Kok in the 1960s, popularizing a teahouse menu that now contains a hodgepodge of Chinese, SE Asian, and Western dishes.  Some of my HK friends may very well have taken me to one of the Hong Kong locations a few years ago, but the Shanghai Fumin Lu spot felt like the first time, with a bustling glass-windowed kitchen hung with roast duck and chashao pork, waiters carrying trays of iced milk tea (and its classy but deranged cousin, the iced champagne milk tea), a bakery churning out chashaobao, tuna buns, sweet cream buns, etc.

Anyway, NBC used to say about its summer reruns: “If you haven’t seen it, it’s new to you.”  Same idea, I guess?

I’d gone to Tsui Wah a few weekends before this last go, with a larger and hungrier crew (including three grownass dudes, two of them hungover).  When I went there again last week with just Myra, it was packed, families and couples and small groups, and the wait only made us hungrier.  This is what we ordered:

Chashao Pork Buns

Crispy Pork

Spicy pig ear, tripe, and tongue

Cucumber Pickles

Malaysian Beef Stew Curry

Malaysian Beef Stew Curry on Rice

Sizzling King Prawns with Fried Noodles

So yeah, it was a bit much for two people.  I’m starting to get a better sense of what comfort food means here in China.  Part of it is homey, traditional dishes that recall back to childhood, but another part is (a) lots of sauce and/or (b) lots of grease.  Many of the ubiquitous Chinese dishes that come to mind are saucy and/or greasy: Sichuan-style yuxiang eggplant, soup dumplings, sweet and sour pork, egg rolls.  I guess that’s a pretty broad definition, and dumplings and soupy things like noodles and wontons are notable exceptions to these completely bogus rules I just made up.  Still figuring out, don’t worry.

Tsui Wah
No. 291, Fumin Road
Xuhui District, Shanghai

Recommendations:
(1) Cha shao pork buns, (2) Malaysian beef stew curry with rice, (3) cha shao and crispy pork, and (4) sizzling king prawns with fried noodles.