My friend Ashley had been touting the lasagna at Angelini Osteria for a good year now, so I made it my first meal on my trip back to LA. It was still a bit chilly (mid-60s?) when I first got in (I know, I know, such are the trials and tribulations of Southern California…), but warm enough for me to sit outside. I’d just flown in from snowy, pollution-wracked Beijing, so my definition of al fresco weather was definitely broader than most Angelenos’.
At first glance, this seemed like a tenable situation for anybody. Anyway, I nibbled on some crispy flatbread and a nice bowl of cold pasta salad (I can’t for the life of me figure out what it’s called though) while I waited for the lasagna. Not that I really knew what to expect, but the scattering of fried spinach was a surprising presentation, if only in that it scrambled whatever initial memories or ideas I had of what this lasagna might taste like. The spinach did add that minerally mouth-feel (as spinach does), contrasting with the luxuriously creamy and savory (beef and veal) ragu, and the tender spinach pasta layers. Eat your heart out, Maggiano’s.