After Paris, we headed to San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque region, locally known as Donostia. This seaside town is a summertime haven, and in 2011 I visited just after the high season, and immediately fell in love with the surroundings. That was a very hurried stay, with barely two days in the area, but I managed to visit both Mugaritz and Arzak. The stupendous arc of the boardwalk around La Concha, the main beach that circles shell-like west to east towards La Parte Vieja (Old Town). Where last time I barely spent any time in this mysteriously vibrant and cozy corner of the city, which houses some of the world’s best tapas bars. This visit, I spent my time exclusively here.
The first place we stopped in was the boldly inventive A Fuego Negro, a visually rambunctious bar serving irreverent dishes, whose names are scrawled across a menu board behind the bar in their Basque spellings – lots of x’s and k’s.
A café con leche. Makcobe burger with “txips” – a mini wagyu burger with ketchup-infused sesame bun, fried banana chips. Intensely beefy, lightly ketchup-y. Kit de pikoteo: tuna, piparras (Basque peppers), and thinly-sliced onions. This was Myra’s favorite here (we ordered it twice) – everything was immensely bright in their freshness, the tuna flaky and meaty, the peppers and onions adding unique undertones of acidity and heat.